subota, 7. ožujka 2015.

Estella; Research + Face Charts

First, I wanted to follow the storyline and create my Estella's character when Pip first met her, just like Miss Havisham. Estella was about 9 years old at the time. 
Younger girls wouldn't wear makeup, but as they got older they'd add some colour to their cheeks and lips to maintain the youthful look. I have created some face charts below, for a 'younger Estella look'. 

As I was drawing my face charts, I realized I'd rather make my character a bit older, when she was in her 20s. Although I think creating a 9-year-old Estella would look good next to my Miss Havisham character, that would be a bit too easy to create in the time given for our informal assessment.
The makeup design is probably going to be a lot similar to the designs I did for Miss Havisham, when I wanted to create her character on her wedding day, because she was about the same age. I want to get that 'no makeup' makeup; fresh, perfect, glowing skin and a little bit of blush and lipstick for that healthy look Victorians were all going for. Pip always described Estella as extemely beautiful. For all we know, she might have had dried skin, chapped lips, maybe even some scabs, but he saw past that becauseshe was the love of his life. I see her like Pip, a beautiful young woman with glowing skin and rosy cheeks.
To connect the look with the storyline, the make up looks I created would be for how she looked when Pip brought her to London. 

I'd place the character in the late 1860s/1870s, but since makeup hasn't changed much throughout the years, and there was only one 'appropriate' makeup look according to Queen Victoria. Towards the end of the Era photographs became popular and as it harder to see the makeup in them, so I researched mainly paintings.

Portrait of a Young Woman
Oil on canvas 
ca. 1802-1804
  The Indianapolis Museum of Art
Artist: Gilbert Stuart
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/angelatietzrobi/19th-century-for-fabulsim/)

Portrait of Annie Gambart
Oil on canvas
mid 19th century
Artist: William Powell Frith

(source: http://www.harrogate.gov.uk/musm/Pages/WilliamPowellFrith.aspx)
plain ringlet free
Portraits of young women
Oil on canvas
early 19th century
(source: https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2009/11/07/regency-hairstyles-and-their-accessories/)

Alice
Oil on canvas

1877
Artist: Henry T. Wells
(source: http://fineartamerica.com/featured/alice-henry-tanworth-wells.html)
Young Estella in Great Expectations, 2012
Helena Barlow as young Estella 
Great Expectations
Film
2012
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/438045501228592656/)

Vanessa Kirby as Estella
Great Expectations
2011

(source: https://www.pinterest.com/sandramodzelews/estella/)

Holliday Grainger as Estella
Great Expectations 
Gif of a scene in the film
2012
(source: http://www.goodreads.com/author_blog_posts/4383022-holliday-grainger-in-great-expectations-2012)


As I was researching I came accross the portrait of Louise, Princesse de Broglie, Cometesse d'Haussonville. It is a painting, oil on canvas, painted by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres in 1845. I thaught it was very interesting and wanted to find out more about who she was. In this painting she was 20, married and already had three children. She was the author of several books (including bibliography of Byron), known for her liberal opinions and active life. There is a statement from her memoirs mentioned in the video I found on YouTube and an online source saying; "I was destined to beguile, to attract, to seduce and in the final reckoning to cause suffering in all those who sought their happiness in me.". This reminded me of Estella's character and how Pip suffered for many years, loving the woman that couldn't love him back.

Short video about Cometesse d'Haussonville
YouTube
uploaded Aug 2nd 2010
(source: https://www.youtube.com/user/FrickCollection)

Portrait of Madame d'Haussonville
Oil on canvas
1845
Artist: Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres
(source: http://www.canvaz.com/gallery/1096.htm)


It isn't just the quote that reminded me of Estella, but her hair, dress and facial expression. 
Louise wore a pale blue dress; both Izzy Meikle- Small (Great Expectations TV mini-series 2011) and  Justine Waddell (Great Expectations 1999 film) wore pale blue dresses. She has a middle parting and her hair is pulled back into a bun, just like theirs. Like all Victorian women, she had very little, or even no makeup at all, but still has the beautiful pale and glowing complexion.


Justine Waddell as Estella (right)
1999
(source: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/culturepicturegalleries/8907506/Gillian-Anderson-Helena-Bonham-Carter-and-Miss-Havisham-on-film.html?image=18)

Izzy Meikle- Small as younger Estella
Great Expectations TV mini-series
2011

(source: https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/tag/great-expectations/)

Young Estella Face Charts;

Look no.1

Products used:

Highlighter: Pale Tan by Kryolan
Eyes: Fennel + Chive Blossom by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC002 by Kryolan + MAC Lip Mix Matte

Feb 27th 2015

Look no.2

Products used:

Highlighter: Pale Tan by Kryolan
Cheeks: Chive Blossom by Kryolan
Eyes: Fennel + Whitte Pepper by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC002 by Kryolan + MAC Lip Mix Matte

Feb 27th 2015

Look no.3

Products used:

Highlighter: Pale Tan by Kryolan
Cheeks: Blush Peach by Kryolan
Eyes: Fennel + Blush Peach by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC002 + LC003 by Kryolan + MAC Lip Mix Matte

Feb 27th 2015


Estella in her 20s Face Charts;

Look no.1

Products used:

Cheeks: Lover by Illamasqua 
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: Lumos + Heliopolis by Illamasqua - Sculpting Powder Duo
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC003 by Kryolan

Feb 28th 2015

Look no.2

Products used:

Cheeks: Hussy by Illamasqua 
Highlighter: Pale Tan by Kryolan
Contouring: White Pepper
Eyes: Blush Peach + Anis by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC003 by Kryolan

Feb 28th 2015

Look no.3

Products used:

Cheeks: Annatto by Kryolan
Highlighter: Pale Tan by Kryolan
Eyes: White Pepper by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC001 by Kryolan

Feb 28th 2015

Look no.4

Products used:

Cheeks: Lover by Illamasqua 
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Contouring: Natural Tan by Kryolan
Eyes: Fennel + Blush Peach by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC003 by Kryolan + MAC Matte Lip Mix

 Feb 28th 2015


Look no.5

Products used:


Cheeks: R 21 by Kryolan 
Highlighter: Pale Tan by Kryolan
Eyes: Fennel + White Pepper + Caraway by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: R 21 + MAC Matte Lip Mix

 Feb 28th 2015

Look no.6

Products used:

Cheeks: TO by Kryolan + Lover by Illamasqua 
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: Fennel + TO by Kryolan + Lover By Illamasqua
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC004 by Kryolan + MAC Matte Lip Mix

 Feb 28th 2015

Look no.7

Products used:

Cheeks: Lover by Illamasqua 
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: Fennel + White Pepper by Kryolan 
Eyebrows: Caraway by Kryolan
Lips: LC003 by Kryolan + MAC Matte Lip Mix

Feb 28th 2015

Look no.8

Products used:

Cheeks: 050 Apropos Apricot Defining Blush by Catrice
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: Blush Peach by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Black Pepper by Kryolan
Lips: LC006 + LC010 by Kryolan + MAC Shine Lip Mix

Feb 28th 2015

Look no.9

Products used:

Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: Lilac by Avon, Purple Haze Palette
Eyebrows: Black Pepper by Kryolan
Lips: LC142 by Kryolan + MAC Shine Lip Mix

Feb 28th 2015

Look no.10

Products used:

Cheeks: 050 Apropos Apricot Defining Blush by Catrice
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: Fennel + White Pepper by Kryolan + Heliopolis by Illamasqua
Eyebrows: Black Pepper by Kryolan
Lips: LC006  by Kryolan + MAC Shine Lip Mix

Feb 28th 2015

Look no.11

Products used:

Cheeks: TO by Kryolan
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: Bronzing Agais by Kryolan
Eyebrows: Black Pepper by Kryolan
Lips: LC142 by Kryolan + MAC Shine Lip Mix

Feb 28th 2015

 Look no.11

Products used:

Contouring: White Pepper
Highlighter: Lumos by Illamasqua
Eyes: White Pepper by Kryolan + Lilac by Avon, Purple Haze Palette
Eyebrows: Black Pepper by Kryolan
Lips: LC008 by Kryolan + MAC Shine Lip Mix

Feb 28th 2015





http://www.worldsbestpaintings.net/artistsandpaintings/painting/58/
all reference found between Feb 28th and March 6th 2015

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