subota, 14. veljače 2015.

Victorian Hairstyles (1860s - 1890s)

Women's hair got bigger in the second part of the 19th century. In 1960s the curls were more flowing and hairstyles were pulled towards the back of the head. Fringes made a comeback, but only in tiny, wispy curls. Middle parting remained, and ornaments were still worn. 
Fashionable Victorian evening hair style from a costume plate of the 1860s.
Victorian evening hairstyle
 taken from a costume plate 
illustration
1860s
(source: 
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/330381322640081987/)
Illustration of the 1860s hairstyles
(source: http://blog.dnevnik.hr/modnizamorac/2013/04/index.html)

By the 1970s long, curled, draping look was popular. It was importat to have long hair and a lot of it, so hair pieces, fake hair and pads were again part of the designs. Woman from lower classes would cut their hair and sell it, just to earn some extra money. 
The Marcel iron was invented in 1970s and it made hairstyling s lot easier and quicker. It is a curling iron that is heated in a small stove. With this invention, women could create all kind of curls and waves.
1870s
Sarony Rawlinson
photograph
1870
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523544622087/)

Hairstyles, illustration from 'Le Moniteur de la Coiffure
Dec 10th 1879
Artist: French School
Publisher: Bridgeman Art Library
(source: http://www.magnoliabox.com/art/303182/hairstyles-illustration-from-le-moniteur-de-la-coiffure-10th)
Victorian hairstyles from a magazine
Illustration
1870s
(source: http://mute-the-silence.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/victorian-hair-styles.html)

From the end of the 1970s and all the way through the 1980s, waved hair and romantic hairstyles was in fashion. The hair was pulled back from the forehead and added to the elaborate topknot at the crown of the head. Some women had small curled fringes. 
Hairstyles
Illustration
1880s 
(source: http://acrosstheages.tripod.com/hair.html)
Judith Gautier, a french poet and historical novelist
photograph
unknown photographer
1880
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/366621225886139003/)

Then, by the 1890s, the pompadour look became popular.


Practice from the lesson

In our lesson with Hellen, she showed us how to create a quite simple late Victorian hairstyle.
Using a pintail comb, I created a middle parting and sectioned the front of the hair. Then I sectioned the hair at the crown of the head using a headband creating a topknot. I curled the hair using a culing tong and pinned it so the curls are showing- similar to how we did a bun. Next, I curled the rest of the hair. Taking the front section, I devided it into 4 even sections - deviding the one closest to the ear into 2 more. I curled other 3 sections and pinned them to let the curls set while curling and pinning the other 2 - making it look quite tight and smooth at the root on each side of the head. I used the 3 sections to create 'waves' and pinned them back. 
To finish off the look I sprayed some dry shampoo onto the hair to create the Miss Havisham 'dusty' look and to give the curls more texture. 


middle parting and  front two sections
hair sectioned at the crown of the head
topknot 
 curling
 sectioning the front and curling 
 pinning back the section from above the ear
'waves' 
Final look 
side
Final look 
back
(the look created on Feb 3rd 2015)

I wish I had more time to create this look as, running out of time and having to rush, I didn't have enough to curl both sides of the head.







 http://merryfarmer.net/2013/04/the-beauty-and-evolution-of-19th-century-hairstyles/
https://www.pinterest.com/GianLucaOrienti/hair-and-politics/
reference found on feb 11/14th 2015

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