petak, 13. veljače 2015.

Victorian Hairstyles (1800s - late 1850s)

At the begining of the 19th century both women and men were taking inspiration for their hairstyles from the Ancient Greek and Roman sculptures, and creating 'contemporary' hairstyles. Tight curls and aranging hair to frame the face was the look everyone was creating. 
Roman marble head of Venus - 1st-2nd century.
Roman marble head of Venus 
1st-2nd century
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523544594144/)
marble head of a woman roman copy of greek statue
1st C. AD Roman bust
(source: https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2009/11/07/regency-hairstyles-and-their-accessories/)

The Titus cut, that women started wearing in different braided styles, at the end of 18th century, was still popular. They would use curls to frame the face and put the rest of the hair in a topknot at the back of the neck. Ribbons, head bands, combs or diadems were used to decorate the hairstyles. 

Close to the 1820s they started to wear hairstyles called 'Jane Austen's hairstyles' (because of her stories) put their hair into a middle parting and pulled it back smoothly. The face-framing curls were lower and weren't framing the face as much, and topknots bigger. No one had a fringe in the 20s. Hair pieces were added for a fuller and bigger hairstyle. Hats - twisted pieces of cotton, velvet or satin materials placed over a wire base, were a symbol of authority. They were worn in public places, as well as coifs and bonnets (with ribbons and feathers).
Portrait of a British cavalry officer’s wife by Giuseppe Bezzuoli, 1826
Portrait of a British cavalry officer’s wife
Oil on canvas
1826 
Artist: Giuseppe Bezzuoli
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523543967911/)
Joseph Karl Stieler, Amalie von Schintling, 1831
Amalie von Schintling
Oil on canvas
1831
Artist: Joseph Karl Stieler
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523542256100/)
Portrait of a Lady miniature on ivory, 1832 by Carl Von Saar
Portrait of a Lady
 miniature on ivory
1832
 Artist: Carl Von Saar
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523543967884/)

As fashion changed, and skirts and hoops got bigger, so did the hairstyles. They stopped wearing their hair so tight. The middle parting remained, the hair was straight and smooth at the roots, with curls at the ends. By the 1850s they greased their roots to make them even smoother, frizzed curls on the sides and the rest of the hair in a topknot. To grease the hair they would use home made pomade, Macassar oil or perfumed grease. They still had to wear hats in public but covering only the back of their heads. Twists and braids were added, as well as accessories such ribbons, lace and jeweled combs. Austrian Empress Elizabeth started the trend of adding flowers.
1845
Three young women
photograph
1845
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523543555440/)
1850s hairstyles
1850s hairstyles
(source:  https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523543457302/)

Young girls wore their hair longer, with a side part and braided.



Early Victorian hairstyle practice 

For my early Victorian hairstyle I decided to make a topknot out of curls and frame the face witf eight curls. 
First I created a middle parting and sectioned the fringe. Then I curled the rest of the hair and pinned it into a high topknot. Doll's hair is very dry and it was quite hard to style the fringe, and it wouldn't look good if I didn't pin them all. So I made four even sections on each side and curled it with medium size tongs and pinned them around the forehead, down to the ears.

Sectioning
Sectioning hair before curling
Hair after curling
 Curls pinned into a topknot
 Curling the fringe
Pinned fringe
Final look






 http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-19th-Century/Nineteenth-Century-Headwear.html
 http://merryfarmer.net/2013/04/the-beauty-and-evolution-of-19th-century-hairstyles/
 http://thehistoryofthehairsworld.com/hair_19th_century.html
reference found on feb 1st/5th/11th 2015

Nema komentara:

Objavi komentar