Dark Eyes And Lips

In our last lesson with Fenella, she showed us how to create a look with dark eyes and lips, and then we had a go ourselves. 

Fennel, Caraway and Black Pepper from our eyeshadow palette by Kryolan were the shades I decided to use. First I applied Caraway all over the lid, then added Black Pepper to the crease. When I took my blending brush that we have from Kryolan, I noticed that the sadows were very hard to blend, shadows came off in certain places. I kept adding the colour and tried to blend it out the best as I could but the more I tryed to blend, the worse it look, in my oppinion. I used a white shadow (Fennel) on her brow bone, inner corners and also used a little bit to blend the other shadows together. I applied red lipstick onto her lips, but didn't use a lip liner, as you can see. 

 Final look  -side

Final look - front

(Look created on March 24th 2015)

This was the first time I used this eyeshadow palette to create a smokey eye look. I think that the shadows and brushes best work on face charts, but not really on skin. Next time I want to create this kind of look, I will definitely use Illamasqua palettes, and getting new brushes would probably help a lot next year. 

Fashion Horror Makeup

In Fenella's lesson we were given make up looks from different designers and we had to copy them, as if we were in the backstage at the fashion show. I got Vivienne Westwood look from her Red Label collection (Autumn/ Winter 2013) at her London fashion show. 

The makeup was quite dramatic; the features were outlined with black and white, then spaces were filled in with acrylic paints in primary tones (red, yellow and blue). Hairstyles were inspired by Madonna; very sexual and glamorous. Some models had their nails airbrused with paint extending onto the fingers (pink and white), and some just had two colours of nailvarnish (nude and blue etc.).

The look I recreated was a mixture between the bottom right and the one in the middle. Makeup always reflects the crazy and unique design Vivianne Westwood creates. The lines weren't perfectly straight and I decided to take a different approach and used a wooden spatula to create the lines. I used it for the yellow lines that go across the brow bone, and also to apply terquoise/blue under the eyes, but the line seemed too harsh, so I blended it with the eyeshadow brush. All black lines were created with the angled brush, as well as the red lips.

brushes used  = spatula

Products used:

Eyes: 071 (Black), TK.2 (Terquoise) Supracolor by Kryolan 

Brow Bone: 509 (Yellow) Supracolor

Eyebrows: Black Pepper by Kryolan

Lines: 071 (Black)

Lips: 079 (Red) Supracolor

Final look - front

Final look - right side

Final look - left side

(look created on: March 16th 2015)

For our homework we had to create three face charts as if we were the make up designers for the fashion show. First face chart (top right) is the look I created on my model, and the products are listed above. Other two were the looks I created, inspired by the looks we got in the lesson (middle and bottom right).

Middle

Products used:

Eyes: 071 (Black), BL.10 (Blue), 079 (Red) + 070 (White) Supracolor by Kryolan 

Brow Bone: Safron by Kryolan

Eyebrows: Black eyeliner by Rimmel London

Lines: 071 (Black)

Lips: 079 (Red) Supracolor

Bottom right

Products used:

Eyes:  509 (Yellow) + BL.10 (Blue) Supracolor by Kryolan 

Brow Bone: Safron by Kryolan

Eyebrows: Black eyeliner by Rimmel London

Lines: 071 (Black)

Lips: 079 (Red) Supracolor

March 18th 2015

Contemporary Horror; Introduction To The New Brief

In the 19th century Gothic Horror could have been found in books, penny dreadfuls, paintings etc. As technology evolved through the 20th century, to the 21st, so did Gothic Horror. Books turned to films and TV series, which were a lot more appealing to new generations.

Our next assignment is to create characters to fit within a horror series we choose from the list that we were given. There are three characters; Claudia, Quentin and Mrs. Laderman, and we have to choose two. 

Claudia is a girl in her twenties that lives on her own and has developed an unhealthy relationship with Horror films, believing they are real. Often, she twists her look to suit the film she is watching. She is an agoraphobic so she never leaves her apartament and keeps in touch with the outside world by her neighbours. In the script she is described as psychotic, and even though she can be seen as humorous, there is always the feeling that danger is just around the corner.
Quentin is her imaginary boyfriend who never fails to disappoint her. He visits regulary, if not they talk on the phone. He isn't real and, as part of her imagination, his appearance changes according to her mood. Just like Claudia, he loves horror film genre and role-playing. Suspecting that Quenting is cheating behind her back, she keeps an eye on him all the time, sometimes keeping him prisoner in one of the rooms.
Claudia's neighbour, Mrs Laderman, lives in the apartment opposite and is her only link to the outside world. She is Claudia's friend but there is a suspicion that she is into Quentin (Claudia in fact).

The characters I have chosen are Claudia and Quentin. I feel like they don't go one without another, as he is part of her imagination and twisted mind and wouldn't exist without her. Debating between a few different series, I ended up choosing In The Flesh, which is a zombie series with a slight twist which makes is very interesting. We have to choose a key word to develop as a point of inspiration, as well as create mood boards, face charts etc. and present our ideas in class in a Power Point presentation.

Evaluation Of The Brief

For me personally, this brief a lot more fun and interesting that the New Elizabethans. It made me realize how much I actually like playing with make up and creating new characters. Realistic make up for TV is something I would really enjoy doing later in life. 
Starting the blog was a bit harder this time, as we didn't get as much guidance as in the first semester. But the more research I did, the easier it was. 

At first, I felt that everything was being so rushed, especially when we had only had two lessons with Hellen. It made me very nervous and I thought I won't be able to create a character in an hour and a half. In my tutorial, Kat's tips were very helpful and after the talk I gained a lot more confidence and didn't feel as stressed as I did before. When it was time to do our first timed assessment, I was prepared everything went very well. The second time around, being a huge perfectionist that I am, I questioned every brush stroke and every curl as I wanted my character to look exactly the same. After comparing images from both assessments, I could see the difference in the wrinkles on the forehead and fringe. Maybe I am just being too hard on myself, maybe I'm not, never the less, I am happy with the final outcome for both Miss Havisham and Estella. 

Estella; Informal Assessment

Adding to the historical part of the brief, we had to create Estella's character in our informal assessment. We had an hour and a half, just like in our timed assessment for Miss Havisham. I think it took me around an hour and 10,15 minutes to complete the look.

Front

Side

Side

Back

A face chart, hair chart and notes were on my mirror as a guide and I had all the products I needed to complete the look. I probably could've sectioned the hair better on the sides, but I am happy with the makeup and the final outcome.

Character created on March 10th 2015

Face chart

Hair chart

Notes

Estella; Final Hair Design

This is the hair chart and design for Estella that I will use in the informal assessment. I did not include the hair ornament I will use , but I have an image from the practice.

Side

Back / Front

(March 10th 2015)

Step 1

Section the fringe that will be curled, a section on each side of the fringe that will be braded and the rest will go into a twisted bun.

Step 2

Put the rest of the hair into a pony tail, then twist it into a bun and use pins to keep it in place. 

Step 3

Make two normal braids. Each braid should go straight down to the earlobe then up straight to the side of the bun. Pin in to keep it in place.

Step 4

Curl the fringe using small tongs, and make them look slightly messy but still keep the curls defined,  then hairspray.

Step 5

Place the hair ornament (necklace) around the bun, with the white and gold side facing to the front. Tie a bow under the bun, with the ribbon on the necklace.

Image from the practice

March 10th 2015

Estella; Hairstyle Practice

The hairstyle below was my favourite out of all I've created. Curls at the front, one section on each side braided into a normal plait that goes from the front of the ear to the back. A twisted bun at the back. The two braids cross under the bun; braid from the right going around the left side, and the left one on the right and pinned around the bun.

March 6th 2015

Practice in the lesson

Because my partner was late I decided to first try the hairstyle on a doll although the hair wasnt as long as I needed it to be. First I sectioned 3 sections at the front - one for the curls and 2 for the braids. I left some hair between the ear and the braid and, with the rest of the hair, pulled it back into a high pony tail. Then I took 2 sections of the pony tail into a twisted bun and pinned it to keep it in place. I braided each braid and tried to twist it around the bun, like in my design, but it was too short so I pinned it into the bun, without twisting. In the end, I curled the fringe and pinned the curls; I had to pin the curls because doll's fringe is long, but my partner has short fringe and I won't have to pin them.

Sectioned hair at the front

Twisted bun

Close up of the bun

Side - braid 

Front - curls

Back - bun + decoration

 I tried the hairstyle on my partner to see if her hair is long enough for the braid to go around the bun. The hair was longer than the doll's but couldn't go all the way around like in my design. So I decided to create a new hair chart and use the desing created on my doll as my final hairstyle for Estella's character.

Final design on my partner - side

(both hairstyles created on March 10th 2015)

Estella; Final Face Chart + Practice

This is the makeup look that l chose for my Estella character. I think that the colours that I've chosen suit the charatcters personality and the historical period (19th century).

Products that I will need to create this look: 

Cheeks: Annatto by Kryolan

Highlighter: Albatros by Nars

Eyes: White Pepper + Caraway by Kryolan

Eyebrows: Caraway + Black Pepper by Kryolan

Lips: LC001 by Kryolan

  Feb 28th 2015

Practice

So here I created my final makeup look on myself using the products listed above. 

March 9th 2015

The Art Of Gothic - Britain's Midnight Hour: Blood for Sale - Gothic Goes Global Review

Gothic is everywehere, even today. It began as a medieval revival and by the mid 19th century it had spread in most aspects of people's lives- novels, poems, paintings, architecture etc. In the third, and last episode, Dixon shows us how the gothic horror had influenced books, films, TV, technology, art and even fashion of the 20th century. 

The biggest influence on the film making industry of 20th century was Dracula, gothic novel by Bram Stoker (1897). About a vampire that lived in a house called Carfax, outside London. The novel looks back, on the gloomth, and forth, through the 20th century. Stoker mentiones new media such as the telephone, phonograph, Kodak camera and typewriter.
Das Kapital, written by Karl Marx (1867), is also gothic novel with a vampire as the main character. Marx warns people of Capitalism and how people are slaves of the modern world. One of the first people to ever read Das Kapital was William Morris, a revolutionary socialist. He was the first person to start the Arts & Crafts movement, was against the industrialization and longed for the past times. While studying at Oxfrord College, The nature of Gothic by John Ruskin, inspired him so much in life that later he even reprinted the book. After college, with his friends, he started his own company Moris & co., where they hand made wallpapers, carpets etc. 
Joseph Conrad published a novel in 1899 Heart of Darkness, about Charles Marlow and his expirience at the Congo River in Africa. Conrad touches on the subjects such as colonalism and rasism caused by European imarialsim. 
There was also T. S. Eliot, a gothic poet that made a big impact on the gothic literature with his poem The Waste Land (1922). The poem is very visual and every line contains gothic symbols; bats, river Thames, ruins, churches etc. 

The greatest gothic painter of the 20th century was Francis Bacon. Just like Eliot's poem, his paintings are full of gothic symbols.

"Study of a head of a Screaming Pope"
Yale Center for British Art

Oil on canvas

1952

Artist: Francis Bacon

(source: http://www.japantimes.co.jp/culture/2013/03/28/arts/francis-bacon-the-restlessness-of-human-existence/#.VQVlEdLz2OM)

In 1913, another William Morris started his own car making company (factory) that was completely opposite to Morris & Co. Taking the assembly line from Henry Ford and with a huge number of employers, Morris produced 20 cars per week. Today people are replaced with machines and the company produces 900 cars daily. 

The Granada Cinema in Tooting, built in the 1930s looked more like a gothic palace than a cinema. F. W. Murnau's film Nosferatu (1922), A. Hitchcock's The Lodger: Story of the London fog (1927) are just some of the first horror films, along with Dracula (1931). Dixon was right, if you think about it, cinema is the ultimate gothic house - we watch old films with actors that are dead, but they come to life every time we watch them.

Interior of Granada Cinema

Tooting, London

2010

(source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granada,_Tooting#/media/File:Granada_Tooting.JPG)

Gothic narative seemed to make more sense to the modern world than any other. Gothic is not only in our books and film, but in our minds, too. As Morris said; "We shall be our own goths", and I completely agree with this quote.

reference found on March 14th 2015

Estella; Hair Ornaments And Acessories

Victorians wore hair pieces mostly to hide hair loss caused by illness. Combs, ribbons, frontlets, feathers and flowers were worn as hair accessories. Mourning jewellery were most popular accessories, but pearl necklaces were worn, too. 

Victorian pearl hair comb

floral motif

c. 1850

(source: http://barbaraanneshaircombblog.com/2011/06/07/mother-of-pearl-hair-combs/)

Pearl and diamond tiara comb
France
19th century
(source: http://barbaraanneshaircombblog.com/2009/11/08/belle-epoque-pearl-and-diamond-comb/)

Frontlet
head ornament
France
19th century
(source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kotomi-jewelry/2553736536/in/set-72157605439365597)

Amethyst and Turquoise  frontlet
head ornament
c. 1815
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/241083386278121705/)

Three-row natural pearl necklace with emerald, ruby and diamond clasp
Late 19th century
(source: http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/19015/lot/11/)

Amalie von Schintling - wore a pearl necklace
Oil on canvas
1831
Artist: Joseph Karl Stieler
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/546061523542256100/)

Hairstyles with ribbons
 illustration from 'La Mode Illustree'Oil painting reproduction
1872 

Artist: unknown
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/524810162798459853/)

Vanessa Kirby as Estella and Douglas Booth as Pip
Great Expectations
2011
(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/118219558941496240/)

Frontlets and ribbons were my favourte hair ornaments from the Victorian, and I had a perfect necklace that combined the two and could be used as decoration in the hair. I will place it around the bun, and tie a bow at the back. 

As jewellery, I will use a pearled necklace that matches the hair ornament nicely.

Head ornament (necklace) and pearl necklace

Pearl necklace

Hair ornament 

Estella; Hair Design Research + Drawings

I created my Miss Havisham character as if she last did her hair in 1840s /1850s - when she was getting ready for the wedding. When Pip brought Estella to London it was a bit more than 20 years later, so I researched hairstyles from the 1860s- late 1870s. 

I think that Estella never really had very complicated hairstyles s she was growing, and before she got married and moved out of the Satis House There are relatives living with them too, but her adopted mother, Miss Havisham, wasn't much of a mother figure. She didn't even change her clothes or wash herself, why would she treat her hair differently? 

Photograph of a woman

Early bustle period
c.1870

(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/370913719281662568/)

Two sisters

Ohio, North Dakota

1870s

Photographer: unknown

(source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/28333802@N04/4884442936/)

Portrait of a woman

Photograph 

1870

(source: http://www.bartoscollection.com/historicfashions/ladyfleur.html)

Victorian hairstyle

from Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine
1867

(source: http://www.victoriana.com/Victorian-Fashion/victorianhairstyles-1867.html)

Onésipe Aguado - Woman Seen From The Back

part of "Musings on the Backside"

Metropolitan Museum

Salted paper print from glass negative

1862

(source: http://venetianred.net/2009/02/24/hidden-identity-musings-on-the-backside-part-i/)

1870s Women's Hairstyles

Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900

Photograph

Dressed for the Photographer

1870s
 Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa

(source: http://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1870s_hair_women.php)

Portrait of a woman

late 1860s / early 1870s

photograph
Photographer: unknown

(source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/566046246886640645/)

1870s Women's Hairstyles

Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900

Photograph

Dressed for the Photographer
 Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa

(source: http://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1870s_hair_women.php)

Hairstyle decorated with a comb

drawing

1860s

Artist: unknown

(source: http://blog.historicalfashions.com/2009/05/1860s-hairstyles.html)

Braided decorated 

photograph

1860s

Photographer: unknown

(source: http://blog.historicalfashions.com/2009/05/1860s-hairstyles.html)

Hairstyle no.1

This hairstyle looks more like an early Victorian, but as shown in the research above, with slightly bigger and messier curls, it could be made into a late Victorian, too. Hair at the back it braided and twisted into a bun.

(Feb 21st 2015)

Hairstyle no.2

Curled fringe, sides puled back. Rest of the hair in big tight curls. 

(Feb 21st 2015)

Hairstyle no.3

Again, fringe curled, sides pulled back into a big twisted bun at the back.

March 6th 2015

Hairstyle no.4

Curls at the front, one section on each side braided - going under the ear to the bun at the back, twisted around it.

March 6th 2015

March 6th 2015

Hairstyle no.5

Curles at the front, sides swiped back into a bun made out of a twisted plait.

March 6th 2015

Hairstyle no.6

This hairstyle doesn't look on paper the way I imagined it to look in my head. Basically, what I wanted to do here was to take two sections on each side and take them back and, with the rest of the hair, create an oval shaped bun.

March 6th 2015

 Hairstyle no.7

Here I'd section the middle of the fringe I'd backomb it to make it look bigger. Then make the sides nice and smooth and pull them to the back - joining at the back with the middle section on top, and pinn it all to stay in place. Rest of the hair wavy.

March 6th 2015

Hairstyle no.8

Curls at the front, sides pulled back into a twisted bun. Rest of the hair wavy.

March 6th 2015

Hairstyle no.9

Just like in the majority of my designs so far, curled fringe and sides pulled back into a bun, inspiration for the bun was taken from my research above. 

March 6th 2015

Hairstyle no.10

Wavy fringe, sides sleak, all pulled up into a big top knot at the crown of the head.

March 6th 2015

reference found: Feb 26th - March 5th 2015